It used to be that a hearty beef stew, spaghetti and meatballs and Halloween candy were all we ate at Harvest. But health awareness and dietary restrictions have changed our outlook and I started providing the crew hard boiled eggs (plus donuts) and healthy, flavorful dishes vegetarian that keep everyone’s energy up so we can work with smiles during the long days and nights of harvest.
Pair this with a crisp white: Boedecker Cellars Pinot blanc or Chardonnay.
Moroccan Chickpeas with Chard
1largejalapeño pepperseeded if desired, chopped
1tbspfresh grated ginger root
2 1/2tspkosher saltto taste
1/2tspground black pepper
1bulbfenneldiced (save fronds for garnish)
1large bunchswiss chardstems sliced 1/2-inch thick, leaves torn into bite-size pieces
2carrotspeeled and diced
1turnippeeled and diced
1lbdried chickpeassoaked overnight in water to cover or quick-soaked (see note)
2tbspchopped preserved lemonto taste
1/2cupcilantrochopped (more for garnish)
Heat oil in a large pot over high heat. Add onion and jalapeño and sauté until limp, 3 minutes.
Add garlic, ginger, salt, turmeric, paprika, cinnamon, cumin, black pepper and cayenne and sauté until they release their fragrance, about 2 minutes.
Add tomato paste and sauté for another minute, until darkened but not burned. (If tomato paste looks too dark too quickly, lower heat.) Add fennel, chard stems, carrot and turnip and continue to sauté until vegetables start to soften, about 10 minutes.
Add chickpeas and water to barely cover. Return heat to high if you lowered it and bring to a simmer. Partly cover pot, lower heat to medium low, and simmer for about 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until chickpeas are softened. Add more water if needed (this should be like a stew).
Add chard leaves, apricots and preserved lemon to pot and continue simmering until chard is tender, about 5 minutes longer.
Season with more salt if desired, and serve garnished with cilantro and reserved fennel fronds.
Note: To quick-soak chickpeas, bring them to a boil in water to cover by 1 inch. Turn off the heat and let soak for 1 hour. Drain.
Recipe: Chef Alex Daley’s Consommé (Soter Vineyards)
This recipe never fails us as an elegant first course, or with a loaf of crusty bread for a harvest lunch. Made with a medley of roasted meat bones and clarified through a traditional technique, this broth is crystal clear and layered with flavor.
We pair this with our 2016 Mineral Springs Ranch Pinot Noir. The earthy, umami flavors in the soup serve to highlight the pure, focused red fruits that dominate this wine.
Chef Alex Daley's Consommé
4cupsmeat stock(we prefer a roasted bone stock for richer flavor)
kosher salt and pepperto taste
red wine vinegar
In a food processor, blend together all ingredients (except the stock) until a paste forms.
Add cold stock and meat mixture to a large stock pot. Set over medium heat and stir only for the first couple of minutes to incorporate the meat into the stock. Do not stir again.
As the stock heats, the meat and vegetables will rise to the top and form a ‘raft’ of solids. Slowly simmer the stock (DO NOT BOIL!) and, using a ladle, break a hole in the middle of the raft and carefully ladle the broth over the solids.
After 1 hour, strain the broth through a double layer of cheese cloth. Do not pour the stock, but rather ladle it through the cloth slowly so you don’t break up the solids. Season your broth with red wine vinegar, salt, pepper and enjoy!
24 HOURS OF HARVEST: A SNAPSHOT
#WVHARVEST2018 – October 12, 2018
Welcome to a glimpse of a day in the life of a vintner during their busiest stretch of the year. Read full article
24 Hours of Harvest
24 Hours of Harvest: A Snapshot
Presently, many Willamette Valley wineries are entering the apex of the 2018 crush. That translates roughly to a mind-numbing number of daily cellar tasks, from processing the last of the vintage’s fruit to barreling down young wines for the season.
We lack the space for every detail, but we can offer a useful—and illustrated—snapshot of the process at large. Welcome to a glimpse of a day in the life of a vintner during their busiest stretch of the year.
Picking (6:32 a.m.)
Most winemakers will tell you that great wines are grown in the vineyard. Picking is backbreaking work that requires a trained eye, speed and stamina. Some crews are instructed to watch out for certain flaws in the field, like rot or dried out clusters.
Sorting & Destemming (8:01 a.m.)
Work a harvest or two and your dreams will be sabotaged by sorting line visuals. This sometimes monotonous task ensures the best and healthiest clusters end up in the cellar.
Lab Work (9:50 a.m.)
There’s plenty of chemistry in the process of winemaking, and daily analysis of the must (young wines) paint a telling picture of the vintage. The basics often measured include pH, Brix, temperature and titratable acidity.
Punching Down (11:15 a.m.)
As much a stellar workout as an enological task, punching down involves breaking up the cap of a fermenting wine. The satisfying act releases intoxicating aromas while aiding extraction and wetting the skins and stems.
Tank Shoveling (noon)
Many outfits shovel out their own tanks when a wine is ready for the press. Ventilation is key, as the fermentation process creates a fair amount of carbon dioxide. This is a fantastic way to artfully stain your clothes.
Press Loads (12:40 p.m.)
Running the press can offer a rare window of downtime—the perfect opportunity to wolf down a bowl of soup and sandwich. Many modern presses run on automated cycles, using a large bladder to gently squeeze some of the most complex flavors out of the remaining solids. The resulting juice is vibrant and fulfilling to watch as it trickles into the press pan.
Forklift Driving (1:55 p.m.)
The Swiss Army knife of crush, the forklift does it all. It loads and unloads just about every piece of equipment, stacks and unstacks barrels and can even open a bottle.
Barreling (3:30 p.m.)
It can produce one of the best fragrances of harvest—putting a wine to barrel. The clever design of the L-shaped barreling wand allows clean transport while a headlamp or flashlight is used to gauge filling levels. A little wine will undoubtedly be spilled but that usually leads to beautifully stained barrels.
Barrel Repair (3:35 p.m.)
Some leak. Wax and special kits work great for repairs, but so too do good old-fashioned toothpicks.
Repeat (5:15 p.m.)
The clock may read quitting time but more fruit is arriving on the pad and another tank is ready to be pressed. Depending on the time of day, an upper or downer—or both—is advised.
Story and illustrations by Mark A. Stock | markastock.com Mark Stock is a writer from Portland, Oregon who spent a healthy stretch in the Dundee Hills making, selling and drinking wine. He’s written for Willamette Week, Oregon Wine Press, Travel Oregon, Sip Northwest, SevenFifty and more. Fly-fishing, Icelandic soccer and The Simpsons are among his favorite distractions.
The Night Shift
#WVHARVEST2018 – october 2, 2018
Harvesting by night offers an array of attractive qualities, from chilly clusters to getting an early jump on the day’s winemaking duties. >Read full article
The Night Shift
Night Harvest in the Willamette Valley
The Night Shift with Antica Terra and Johan Vineyards
For some, it’s beyond their control. Logistical mixups or over-demand can lead to awkward fruit picking times, sometimes well after the sun has set. The tractor high beams light up, the crew throws on an extra layer and while the masses are sleeping, the beginning of another vintage is trimmed from the vine.
For others, it’s quite intentional. Harvesting by night offers an array of attractive qualities, from chilly clusters to getting an early jump on the day’s winemaking duties.
Maggie Harrison of Antica Terra says about a third of her label’s fruit is harvested by night. She appreciates the logistical gift of showing up to the winery early in the morning with fresh fruit waiting on the crush pad. She cites the integrity of the clusters, which maintain their shape and firm build amid cooler evening temperatures. Additionally, Harrison also considers the health of her picking crews, who are likely to be more energized during a nighttime pick, especially with harvests creeping earlier and warmer every year.
Dan Hinge of Johan Vineyards in Rickreall was working in California wine country in the mid 2000s when night picks became a hot topic. He says it has taken about a decade for Oregon to accept the idea, although it’s still only done by a handful of labels. “I’m not necessarily a proponent, but I see the pros and cons,” he adds. “I would exclusively do it if I could clone myself and be in two places at once.”
While Johan pays a bit more to harvest in the dark, the fruit comes in at an ideal temperature. “If whole berries are important to you, the fruit has got to come in cold,” Hinge says. The vintner adds that most de-stemmers struggle with fruit that comes in warm. Warmer fruit can be soft and slurry-like, causing the machinery to not always differentiate between grape and stem.
Hinge is well aware of the rigorous demands of picking and has gone with a hybrid approach to split the difference between night and day. Johan tends to start around 5 a.m., while it’s still dark. Being the first pick of the day for the crew, the team is energized. Meanwhile, Hinge shows up to work with fruit already on the pad.
“I was just talking about this with the crew and asked an intern if they could tell the difference between the stuff that came in warm and the stuff that didn’t,” says Hinge. “She said she couldn’t until I sent her over to the ferments—some were mush and some were marvels,” he says.
The Future of Night Picking
Others see the worth in the practice, from Evening Land in the Dundee Hills to Antiquum Farm outside of Eugene. With growing seasons inching longer, warmer and more intense, we may see more and more labels opting for the cooling power of nighttime picks.
by Mark A. Stock | markastock.com Mark Stock is a writer from Portland, Oregon who spent a healthy stretch in the Dundee Hills making, selling and drinking wine. He writes for Willamette Week, Oregon Wine Press, Travel Oregon, Sip Northwest, SevenFifty and more. Fly-fishing, Icelandic soccer and The Simpsons are among his favorite distractions.
Photo credit: Andrea Johnson Photography
Recipe: Shells Baked With Tomato, Cream and Five Cheeses (Union Wine Company)
union wine company – “Shells Baked With Tomato, Cream and Five Cheeses”
Ryan Harms, founder and owner of Union Wine Co., adapted this team favorite from a dish at Al Forno, a Providence, Rhode Island restaurant where he worked at as a cook in the summer of 1998. It is delicious, and every harvest Ryan and his brother Eric (Union’s director of finance) cook it for the harvest crew.
Shells Baked With Tomato, Cream and Five Cheeses
1cupchopped canned tomatoes
3/4cupPecorino Romanofreshly grated
6fresh basil leaveschopped
Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Bring a large pot of water to boil for the pasta.
In a mixing bowl, combine all the ingredients except the pasta and butter. Stir well to combine.
Generously salt the boiling water and drop in the pasta. Parboil for 5 minutes, stirring often.
Drain the pasta, and add to the ingredients in the mixing bowl. Toss to combine. Divide mixture among 6-8 small individual ceramic gratin dishes (1 ½ to 2 cup capacity - or 4-6 larger dishes for main course size. You can also bake it in one big baking dish).
Dot with butter and bake until bubbly and brown on top, about 10 minutes.
I made these donuts last year toward the end of harvest, on one of the first mornings the temperature dropped into the 30s. Walking around with a basket of fresh, hot donuts definitely made me the most popular person at the winery that day! – Amy Griffith, REX HILL Winery Chef
Apple Cider Donuts
1/2cupwhole wheat flour
1/4tspeach nutmeg and cinnamon
6tbspbuttermelted and cooled
oil for frying
In a small saucepan, bring cider to a rapid boil; cook over high heat until reduced by half, about 12 minutes. Cool completely.
Whisk together flours, brown sugar, baking powder, salt, baking soda and spices. In a separate bowl, whisk eggs, melted butter and cooled cider; stir into dry ingredients just until moistened (dough will be sticky). Refrigerate, covered, until firm enough to shape, about 1 hour.
Divide dough in half. On a floured surface, pat each portion to 1/2-in. thickness; cut with a floured 3-in. doughnut cutter.
In an electric skillet or deep fryer, heat oil to 325°. Fry doughnuts, a few at a time, until golden brown, 2-3 minutes on each side. Fry doughnut holes, a few at time, until golden brown and cooked through, about 1 minute on each side. Drain on paper towels; cool slightly. If desired, dip doughnuts into glaze or sugar of your choice.